Val Thorens is already open when Chamonix's valley lifts are still weeks away, and the two are an afternoon apart by road.
Late autumn in a high valley, with the first lifts turning above the treeline and the village below still in its off-season. Quiet, dry cold; a printed season notice on a lift-company door. The scale is a single notice with two dates on it, and what it decides is whether a family's week lands on snow or on a closed mountain.
A ski resort is a calendar that happens to have a village attached: thirty-seven of them are held here as single points with typical seasons, and the honest map is the one that says which weeks the lifts usually turn, which dots have a bed beside them, and which are only an enquiry.